"She wasn't supposed to rule. But she built one of the most beautiful temples in Egypt."
The Temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahari – also known as Djeser-Djeseru, meaning "Holy of Holies" – is unlike any other temple in Egypt.
Three terraces rise from the desert floor. Long ramps connect them. Columns line the courtyards. Behind it all, the limestone cliffs of Thebes rise into the sky, as if the temple grew from the mountain itself.
Most visitors come to Deir el-Bahari for the view. They leave with something more: a story. The story of a woman who became king. Who dressed as a man. Who ruled Egypt for over 20 years. Who built a temple that still takes your breath away.
Let me walk you through it.
Who Was Hatshepsut? The Queen Who Declared Herself King
Hatshepsut was not supposed to be pharaoh. She was a woman. Egypt had never had a female pharaoh – not really. A few queens had ruled before, but always as regents, always in the shadows.
Hatshepsut changed that. She became regent for her young stepson, Thutmose III. Then, within a few years, she declared herself pharaoh. She wore the false beard. She was depicted with a male body in statues. She called herself "His Majesty."
And she ruled for over 20 years. Not as a placeholder. As a king.
To celebrate her reign – and to legitimize her right to rule – she built a temple. Not a small temple. A masterpiece. A temple that would rival anything built by the male pharaohs who came before her.
She called it Djeser-Djeseru. The Holy of Holies.
Quick Facts About the Temple
📍 Location: Deir el-Bahari, West Bank, Luxor
🏛️ Built for: Pharaoh Hatshepsut (18th Dynasty)
📏 Design: Three terraced levels connected by ramps
🕰️ Built: Around 1470 BCE – over 3,400 years ago
🎟️ Ticket Price: Around 400-500 EGP for foreigners ($8-10 USD)
📸 Photography: Allowed (no flash)
⏱️ Time needed: 1-1.5 hours
Walking Through the Temple – What You'll See
The temple is built on three levels. You start at the bottom and work your way up. Each level offers something different.
First Terrace
The first terrace is the largest. Colonnades line both sides. The walls are covered in reliefs. Look for scenes of the expedition to Punt – Hatshepsut's famous trading mission to a distant land (probably modern-day Somalia or Eritrea).
You'll see exotic animals, incense trees, and the famous "Queen of Punt" (depicted with exaggerated features). These reliefs are some of the most detailed in any Egyptian temple.
Second Terrace
The second terrace is more religious. The Chapel of Anubis (jackal god of mummification) is on the left. The Chapel of Hathor (goddess of love and music) is on the right.
The Hathor chapel has columns with capitals carved as the face of the goddess – cow ears, serene smile. It's one of the most beautiful spaces in the temple.
Third Terrace (The Sanctuary)
The highest level. The innermost sanctuary. This is where the statue of Amun would have been kept. The space is small, dark, and quiet. You can feel the age of the stone.
From the third terrace, turn around. The view of the Nile Valley below is stunning. You can see the green fields, the river, the desert beyond. Hatshepsut chose this spot for a reason. She wanted to be close to the gods – and close to the sky.
The Reliefs – Stories Carved in Stone
The walls of Hatshepsut's temple are covered in reliefs. They tell two main stories.
The Divine Birth
One set of reliefs claims that Hatshepsut was not just the daughter of her human father – she was the daughter of the god Amun himself. The reliefs show Amun visiting her mother, Queen Ahmose, and declaring that she would give birth to a future king.
This was political propaganda. But it was also beautiful art. The scenes are carved with incredible detail – the folds of the clothing, the expressions on the faces, the hieroglyphs that explain the story.
The Expedition to Punt
The other famous reliefs show Hatshepsut's trading mission to the Land of Punt. Egyptian ships sailed down the Red Sea, returned with myrrh trees, frankincense, gold, ebony, ivory, and exotic animals.
The reliefs show the ships, the sailors, the trees being loaded onto the boats, and the Queen of Punt (a famously obese figure, depicted with rolls of fat).
These reliefs are unique. No other Egyptian temple has such detailed scenes of a peaceful trading mission. They tell us that Hatshepsut valued commerce over conquest. She was not a warrior. She was a builder.
The Man Behind the Masterpiece – Senenmut
Hatshepsut did not build the temple alone. Her chief architect was a man named Senenmut. He was her advisor, her trusted confidant, and possibly her lover (though no one knows for sure).
Senenmut designed the temple. He oversaw the construction. He chose the location. He created a masterpiece that would inspire Egyptian architecture for centuries.
Today, you can still see statues of Senenmut in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. He is depicted holding Hatshepsut's daughter – a sign of his closeness to the royal family.
Without Senenmut, there would be no Djeser-Djeseru. He was the genius behind the queen's vision.
A Quick Reflection – What This Temple Means
I sat on the second terrace, looking out at the valley below. A tour guide was explaining the Punt reliefs to a group of tourists. They pointed at the ships, the trees, the queen.
I thought about Hatshepsut. She ruled in a world that did not want her. She had to fight for her throne, for her legacy, for her place in history.
After her death, her stepson tried to erase her. He chiseled her name and images from temples. He tried to make Egypt forget.
But he couldn't destroy Djeser-Djeseru. The temple remained. And today, 3,400 years later, people still come to see it. To marvel at it. To remember her.
Hatshepsut won in the end. She always does.
Tips for Visiting the Temple of Hatshepsut
- Go early. The temple opens at 6 AM. The morning light is beautiful, and the crowds are thin.
- Bring water. There is almost no shade. The sun is intense, even in winter.
- Wear comfortable shoes. The ramps are long. You will climb 3 levels.
- Hire a guide. The temple has minimal signage. A guide can explain the reliefs and the story.
- Don't miss the Chapels of Anubis and Hathor. Most tourists rush past them. They're worth 10 minutes each.
- Combine with Mentuhotep II's temple. It's right next door. Walk over after you finish Hatshepsut's temple.
- Take a photo from the third terrace. The view of the valley below is stunning. Best photo spot in the temple.
Should You Visit? An Honest Answer
Yes. Absolutely.
The Temple of Hatshepsut is not just one of the most beautiful temples in Egypt. It's one of the most beautiful buildings ever built. Anywhere.
The design. The setting. The story. It all comes together in a way that feels almost impossible. A temple carved into a cliff. A queen who defied tradition. A legacy that outlasted every attempt to destroy it.
Don't skip it. Even if you're "templed out." Even if you're tired. Even if you've seen Karnak and Luxor and Abu Simbel.
Come to Deir el-Bahari. Stand on the terraces. Look out at the valley. And remember the queen who became king.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is Djeser-Djeseru?
A: It's the ancient Egyptian name for the Temple of Hatshepsut. It means "Holy of Holies."
Q: Is the Temple of Hatshepsut included in the standard ticket?
A: Yes. It's a separate ticket, but it's included in most West Bank itineraries. Expect 400-500 EGP ($8-10).
Q: How long does it take to visit the temple?
A: 1-1.5 hours. Add 30 minutes if you're visiting with a guide.
Q: Can I take photos inside the temple?
A: Yes, without flash. No restrictions.
Q: Is the temple wheelchair accessible?
A: Limited. The ramps are steep. The terrain is uneven. Some areas are accessible, but not all.
Q: What's the best time of day to visit?
A: Early morning (6 AM – 8 AM) or late afternoon (3 PM – 5 PM). The light is beautiful, and the crowds are smaller.
Q: Is the temple open year-round?
A: Yes. The temple is open every day of the year.
Internal Links – Articles You Might Like
- The Forgotten Temple of Mentuhotep II – Next Door to Hatshepsut
- The Valley of the Kings – Complete Guide
- Deir el-Bahari – The Mortuary Temples of Thebes
© 2026 Ancient Egypt Guide – Celebrating Egypt's Extraordinary Rulers
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